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Archive for June 10th, 2009

These dresses aren’t quite done, I still need to go to the store and purchase some ribbon and buttons to close up the back but I’ve already learned a valuable skill. When working on this blouse I got very confused when it came time to apply the bias tape. I was thinking of it like a quilt binding that had to be visible when in reality it doesn’t have to be visible at all.

So here is how you attach single fold bias tape to neck and arm holes :)

The first step is to cut out the bias tape, you could buy it store bought but it’s not hard to make. You can see my instructions here. Of course if you only need a small amount then you can simply turn the fabric on the diagonal before cutting out the appropriate sized strips.

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Next head on over to your ironing board and fold in one edge 1/2 inch.

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Then fold the long edge in half so that the wrong sides are together.

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Place the right side of the bias tape to the right side of the arm (or neck) hole lining up the raw edges.

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You may have to use a lot of pins to ease the bias tape around the opening.

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When you get around to the other side trim the end to 3/4 in and tuck in into the folded edge of the bias tape. You’ve now have a complete circle of bias tape.

Head over to your sewing machine and attach using a 1/8 in seam.

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Go slowly as you will need to smooth the fabric as you go. You also want to make sure you are only sewing through one side, it’s very easy to get the otherside of your armhole caught by the needle.

Sew all the way around making sure to backstitch at the beginning and end.

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Now fold this under the arm hole opening so it is no longer visible from the outside.

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Head back to the machine and top stitch a 1/4 in seam around the arm (or neck) hole opening.

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Again watch out that you don’t catch the other side or the pins on the other side under the needle. If you don’t you may end up sewing your pin head to your garment. My sewing machine can’t shirr but it can sew through a plastic pin head… go figure!

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And your done! This is how the two styles look side by side. One has single fold bias tape that is invisible and the other has double fold bias tape that is clearly visible.

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If you want to learn how to apply double fold bias tape head over to the Angry Chicken and her fabulous video tutorial.

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